#1 Consumer Comment
AUTHOR: Robert - Bowie (U.S.A.)
SUBMITTED: Thursday, March 19, 2009
POSTED: Thursday, March 19, 2009
Considering cars and trucks require anywhere from 70-140 ft lbs of torque, are you willing to actually pay someone for the 2-3 hours your method will require?
I think not.
There are Torque-Sticks available that provide the correct torque when using impact wrenches. NOBODY is going to do what you want them to do as far as cleaning the surfaces, torquing in 10 pound intervals, and then retorquing after a test drive.
You are insane.
#8 Consumer Comment
AUTHOR: Jim - Mobile (U.S.A.)
SUBMITTED: Thursday, June 25, 2009
POSTED: Wednesday, August 19, 2009
OK, ASE master mechanic here so listen up, maybe copy this and post in tire shops if you wish.
LUG NUT PROTOCOL
First he lug nuts must be clean enough to run on the stud using only your fingers,
If it won't either replace the nut or stud as needed.(Usualy both)
Lug nuts can be gotten from any auto parts store, and it doesn't make a damn if it's Auto Zone, NAPA, or any other, they're the same nuts, usualy they're three to a package for a buck or two per pack
Studs are also in packs, usualy one each, also around a buck a pack.
CORRECT STUD REPLACEMENT
If the stud's not sheared off, a solid lick with a two pound sledge should pop it right out, If it's sheared, use a largish straight punch (Flat end , of course)
NO IT WILL NOT HURT THE WHEEL BEARINGS. To replace a stud, first put a few drops of oil on the threads,( plain old 30 weight will do fine) use a couple of flat washers and install the nut backwards, flat side to the washers, run the nut on with your fingers, then run it down with an air gun (Medium setting is fine), when the stud head is solid against the back of the flange, stop and run the nut off, check the threads to be sure you didn't strip them (Run the nut on by hand again).
and you're done.
CORRECT WHEEL REPLACEMENT
beore lifting the wheel into place, put a drop of oil on each stud threads (I keep a small oil can handy, ANY oil will do.) Lift the wheel into place, then put the nuts on BY HAND, (The right way this time, taper IN) and thread them all, all the way down (Wiggle the wheel while you do this to make sure the wheel is not cocked)
THEN, AND ONLY THEN REACH FOR THE AIR GUN
select medium air power (I had an adjustment to set torque on my air gun, and set mine at 95-100 foot pounds torque, More is NOT needed) run them down in a star patern for 5 bolts, or across the wheel for 6 bolts, when done run the gun around in a circle nd hit each nut again
You'r through
If you use a torque bar, do exactly the same, or if the air gun is not adjustable use a torque wrench for the last circle.
Do enough wheels and the whole thing takes seconds per wheel (Literaly)
DONT'S
don't force the nut, get another, likewise studs, (Theyer'e cheap)
Never spinn the nut down by air, run them by finger.(That way you can feel if it's rough/bad.)
RULES OF BROKEN STUDS
if it breaks as it's being removed, the idiot who put it on wrong is at fault. NOT YOU.
If it breaks on installation, YOU"RE THE IDIOT, replace it
If you're the unlucky soul who gets mags with a lost key, or a broken stud there's a neat tool of very hard steel, tapered inside, (Forgot who makes it) you place it over the mag lug nut, and swat it one good tine with your (2 pound) Hammer, it sticks enough to unscrew that nut,
Broken studs are easily removed with an air hammer, (Blunt end tool), if you must Drill, don't beat up the wheel, the worst is a loose nut and stud that can't unscrew or drill, then you're fucked, beat the wheel up, it's ruined anyway, but be sure to show/tell the customer first.
That should cover it, good luck, Jim David, ASE Master Mechanic (Retired)