• Report: #435627

Complaint Review: Les Schwab

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  • Submitted: Thursday, March 19, 2009
  • Last Posting: Friday, June 26, 2009
  • Reported By:St Marys Ohio
Les Schwab
Richland Washington 99352 U.S.A.

Les Schwab Schwab mechanic improper service procedures- potentially dangerous Richland Washington


1Author 8Consumer 0Employee/Owner

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A few weeks ago, I allowed Les Schwab in Richland WA remove two rear wheels from my vehicle and balance them. I watched their mechanic improperly use a torque wrench to install the wheel lug nuts, resulting in the nuts being grossly overtightened and unevenly tightened.

Not by a couple pounds, but by 83%. I detorqued two lug nuts on the same wheel, one at 140 ft/lbs and another at 160 ft/lbs the mechanic tightened the nuts in a circular pattern, and not the required cross tightening pattern.

I confronted them with this and to their credit, they did not attempt to cover it up. After showing them some impressive 'mechanical credentials' I went with a mechanic and manager to the vehicle and used my expensive torque wrench to prove to them the nuts were grossly overtightened.

The mechanic that worked on the wheels the second time was going to:

1.) use an AIR IMPACT GUN to install the lug nuts-
and in the process, overtighten them AGAIN and possibly warp the rim.
Impact guns are NOT calibrated and depend on air line pressure and oil inside them (for sealing) for torque and tighten each nut to full torque, in turn, which may easily warp the rim.

2.) pound a damaged wheel stud out with a 2 pound steel HAMMER-
and possibly destroy an axle bearing, there are PROPER TOOLS for doing such work.

I had to stand over their mechanic and show him how to properly install a wheel and lug nuts.

Overtightened lug nuts were reported recently in a UK paper as causing a multiple- fatality accident when a med student overtightened wheels on a car.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1092207/Woman-medical-student-died-crash-driver-bolted-wheel-nuts-tightly.html

See your vehicles Owner or Shop Manual for proper wheel lug nut torquing procedures and specs or here is how I do it, which exceeds most manufacturers requirements:

1.) ensure clean and undamaged threads on nuts and studs. All nuts must thread completely on by hand with no binding else threads are dirty or damaged. Dirty threads cannot be accurately torqued. Damaged studs AND their nuts should be replaced as mechanics and most vehicle owners are not sufficiently trained to determine whether a damaged stud is repairable.

2.) clean mating surfaces of wheel and hub.

3.) install wheel and HAND TIGHTEN all lug nuts to seat the rim on the hub. Start with a nut at the top of the wheel.

4.) tighten each lug nut in turn in a cross-tightening pattern to an initial torque which is a fraction of final torque. I go by 10-20 ft/lb increments. this prevents the wheel from being warped as happens when one lug nut is tightened fully.
"Cross tightening" depends on teh number and arrangement of the nuts, but is often tightening nuts which oppose each other in pairs at 180 degrees.

5.) repeat 4.) at 10-20 ft/lb increments to final torque. Do not exceed final torque.

6.) test drive a few miles at low speeds and recheck final torque.

David c
St Marys, Ohio
U.S.A.

This report was posted on Ripoff Report on 3/19/2009 10:07:42 AM and is a permanent record located here: http://www.ripoffreport.com/auto-repair-service/les-schwab/les-schwab-schwab-mechanic-imp-cf5z7.htm. The posting time indicated is Arizona local time. Arizona does not observe daylight savings so the post time may be Mountain or Pacific depending on the time of year.

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REBUTTALS & REPLIES:
1Author 8Consumer 0Employee/Owner
Updates & Rebuttals

#1 Consumer Comment

I cannot stop laughing

AUTHOR: Robert - Bowie (U.S.A.)

Considering cars and trucks require anywhere from 70-140 ft lbs of torque, are you willing to actually pay someone for the 2-3 hours your method will require?

I think not.

There are Torque-Sticks available that provide the correct torque when using impact wrenches. NOBODY is going to do what you want them to do as far as cleaning the surfaces, torquing in 10 pound intervals, and then retorquing after a test drive.

You are insane.
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#2 Consumer Comment

You're even funnier than I thought

AUTHOR: Robert - Bowie (U.S.A.)

I just went to the link you provided. Seriously people...stop providing me with the ammo I need top debunk your whacky thought processes. Make me work for it.

That link was about a guy who changed the wheel BEARING and overtorqued the BEARING nut. It had nothing to do with the bolts that attach the wheel to the hub.

Go seek professional help.
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#3 Consumer Comment

So much for "impressive credentials"

AUTHOR: Flynrider - Phoeix (U.S.A.)

Even a student mechanic knows that a) you should never use a torque wrench to loosen fasteners (you will screw up the calibration), and b) you cannot obtain an accurate torque value by using a torque wrench to loosen a fastener. They don't work both ways.

How can a mechanic with "impressive credentials" not know this?

There is one significant thing in this report. The fact that the shop did not throw you out while laughing hysterically at your claims, shows that they are as ill informed about mechanics as you are. Not a good thing.
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#4 Consumer Comment

So much for "impressive credentials"

AUTHOR: Flynrider - Phoeix (U.S.A.)

Even a student mechanic knows that a) you should never use a torque wrench to loosen fasteners (you will screw up the calibration), and b) you cannot obtain an accurate torque value by using a torque wrench to loosen a fastener. They don't work both ways.

How can a mechanic with "impressive credentials" not know this?

There is one significant thing in this report. The fact that the shop did not throw you out while laughing hysterically at your claims, shows that they are as ill informed about mechanics as you are. Not a good thing.
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#5 Consumer Comment

This is very funny

AUTHOR: Tech1 - Laurel (U.S.A.)

I know on Audi the rotors have a problem with torque sticks. They warp. We will run down the lugs. Then torque them to specs. I only have to clean the surface because I am tired of removing wheels with a hammer. Their are a lot of people that don't know how to calibrate the sticks.In addition, torque wrench dose not take that much longer to use.
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#6 Consumer Comment

get a life

AUTHOR: Tom - BOWLING GREEN (U.S.A.)

what a bunch of bull.Torque sticks do the job very well, been using them on a professional level for 10+ years and never had a n issue with proper torque.
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#7 Consumer Comment

How do you calibrate a torque stick?

AUTHOR: Robert - Bowie (U.S.A.)

They are nothing more than a torsion bar with a preset amount of tension on them. As long as you do not attempt to reverse them, they will maintain their torque setting for many years.
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#8 Consumer Comment

I'm still laughing, nobody so far has the slightest idea exactly how to do a simple lug nit installation

AUTHOR: Jim - Mobile (U.S.A.)

OK, ASE master mechanic here so listen up, maybe copy this and post in tire shops if you wish.

LUG NUT PROTOCOL

First he lug nuts must be clean enough to run on the stud using only your fingers,
If it won't either replace the nut or stud as needed.(Usualy both)

Lug nuts can be gotten from any auto parts store, and it doesn't make a damn if it's Auto Zone, NAPA, or any other, they're the same nuts, usualy they're three to a package for a buck or two per pack

Studs are also in packs, usualy one each, also around a buck a pack.

CORRECT STUD REPLACEMENT
If the stud's not sheared off, a solid lick with a two pound sledge should pop it right out, If it's sheared, use a largish straight punch (Flat end , of course)
NO IT WILL NOT HURT THE WHEEL BEARINGS. To replace a stud, first put a few drops of oil on the threads,( plain old 30 weight will do fine) use a couple of flat washers and install the nut backwards, flat side to the washers, run the nut on with your fingers, then run it down with an air gun (Medium setting is fine), when the stud head is solid against the back of the flange, stop and run the nut off, check the threads to be sure you didn't strip them (Run the nut on by hand again).
and you're done.

CORRECT WHEEL REPLACEMENT
beore lifting the wheel into place, put a drop of oil on each stud threads (I keep a small oil can handy, ANY oil will do.) Lift the wheel into place, then put the nuts on BY HAND, (The right way this time, taper IN) and thread them all, all the way down (Wiggle the wheel while you do this to make sure the wheel is not cocked)

THEN, AND ONLY THEN REACH FOR THE AIR GUN
select medium air power (I had an adjustment to set torque on my air gun, and set mine at 95-100 foot pounds torque, More is NOT needed) run them down in a star patern for 5 bolts, or across the wheel for 6 bolts, when done run the gun around in a circle nd hit each nut again
You'r through

If you use a torque bar, do exactly the same, or if the air gun is not adjustable use a torque wrench for the last circle.
Do enough wheels and the whole thing takes seconds per wheel (Literaly)

DONT'S
don't force the nut, get another, likewise studs, (Theyer'e cheap)
Never spinn the nut down by air, run them by finger.(That way you can feel if it's rough/bad.)

RULES OF BROKEN STUDS
if it breaks as it's being removed, the idiot who put it on wrong is at fault. NOT YOU.
If it breaks on installation, YOU"RE THE IDIOT, replace it

If you're the unlucky soul who gets mags with a lost key, or a broken stud there's a neat tool of very hard steel, tapered inside, (Forgot who makes it) you place it over the mag lug nut, and swat it one good tine with your (2 pound) Hammer, it sticks enough to unscrew that nut,

Broken studs are easily removed with an air hammer, (Blunt end tool), if you must Drill, don't beat up the wheel, the worst is a loose nut and stud that can't unscrew or drill, then you're fucked, beat the wheel up, it's ruined anyway, but be sure to show/tell the customer first.

That should cover it, good luck, Jim David, ASE Master Mechanic (Retired)
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#9

proper torque for real

AUTHOR: lunchboxxx253 - puyallup (USA)

well sir i am a loyal employee of the company and think that you should think before you speak. all employees are required to take and pass a T.I.A. test before working for this company. T.I.A. stands for tire industry of America. this is a government standards for any vehicle mechanic who touches a tire. go ahead and check out the T.I.A. website before you start assuming things bud. thanks for reading on the american way of putting on a tire/ wheel assembly
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