Sonix Electronics Full Warranty My @$$ Internet

First off..the company is called "Sonic Electronix",not Sonix Electronics" so anyone who searches this company online will never see this report.

But that aside, this company has been around a long time, I am pretty sure they are capable of testing an amplifier, which is very simple. An audio source, 3 wires (12v+, 12v- and 12v+ remote), and a speaker.

There is no need for them to install it in a car and drive around. As long as the amp is receiving the right voltage, it does not know if the power is coming from a test bench power supply, or a car. It is not that smart..but whomever is testing the amp should be smarter then the amp.

It may be a problem with the installation whether you want to admit it or not. If a tiny bump as you state makes it start cutting out in your car..but dropping it from 3" on the test bench does not...it concludes the problem is something in the car..not the amp.

To save yourself the grief and money from you keep shipping it back and forth for nothing, why not find someone who knows how to use a DMM to test what is going on with the amp while it is in your car. I would suggest a pro installer so it may cost you again. However, they will find the problem (make sure you use a good installer who really knows how to troubleshoot, not just some person who is "good enough" just to get it to work).

Now if they conclude the amp is bad, you can have them contact Sonic and explain what they found. If the problem is installation related, a good installer should be able to find out why in a minute and advise accordingly. Could be bad RCA's, bad ground, corrosion at the battery terminals or fuse holder, or even the final ohms load the speakers are placing on the amp..all can be checked in less then a minute while the amp is still in the car. Note you can not test this accurately by guessing or assuming. You can not test this accurately with a cheap test light. A cheap test light will only tell you it is getting voltage or not..but not how much. Only a meter in the hands of someone skilled at using it, can use it to determine exactly how much voltage the amp is getting..if there is any drop in voltage due to a bad positive or ground, or remote..and can be used to measure the DC resistance of the speakers to determine the final ohms load. As well, it can be used to see if any of the speaker wires are shorting which would also send the amp into protect mode causing it to cut out.

Good luck with it.

Sorry, should have been more specific, It was professionally looked at and tested for wiring issues 2 of the 3 times the wiring was redone, I did one, professional did the other 2.

 

And yeah, I just noticed the company name mixup, cant find a way to edit it.

...because I am a nice guy. I have nothing to do with the place you got this from, but I am in the industry for a long time. Personally I do not think it is a good idea to purchase car electronics online unless you are a professional installer, or have one install it for you..but regardless lets fix this.

If you are willing to be honest with me, and do exactly has I say, I will help you find the problem. You will not need a meter for the preliminary checks but if they do not fix it you will need to borrow or purchase a Digital multi meter (DMM). You can find them cheap, like 10 bucks at harbor freight, or spend a little more at lowes or home depot. It does not have to be an expensive meter, just has to read voltage, current and resistance. Any other features will not be used.

I can't promise I will get right back but I do check the sight a lot.

The first thing to do is turn the system on (engine off), and open the hood. Grab the main power wire that is connected to the + of the battery and wiggle it around, tug it a bit and see if it cuts on and off. If it does make a new connection at the battery and make such the terminal is clean and corrosion free.

Also, open the fuse holder and see it is has corrosion. If so replace it or clean it by scraping off the corrosion. It is a temporary fix but it will let you know if this is the cause. As well, there are a ton of defective cheaply made fuses on the market. They are not actually blown..but broken on the inside where you can not see it. They will cause an amp to cut on and off randomly, and over bumps. So consider trying another fuse as well and have a few extra ready.

If none of this is the problem let me know and I will tell you what to do next. If this did fix it please be honest and let me know, and it would be fair to Sonic as well. Granted it would have been nice of them to at least do the first test as a courtesy, and use your UPS to save you some money on shipping..but they have their policies and services they use.. and they are a business, not a charity.

Yeah there is no way to edit it. So if you still want to report against this company you will have to do it over.

I just find it odd that a company that has been around this long and does not have too many complaints against it would go through all this just to get out of replacing a bad amp under warranty, but i guess anything is possible. I have no experience with this company, but i do with amplifiers and installation.

If they are being honest with you, i can tell you that they are doing the right thing by bench testing it, they do not need to install it in a car to verify if it has a problem. That is the first thing any installer or tech will do if they can not verify the problem in the car the first time...they put it on the test bench. If the amp works fine on the test bench, this concludes the amp is good.

I can't do much more to help you unless I could check the vehicle and/or the amp myself. I can say there are a lot of "pro" installers, even decent ones who still are not great at troubleshooting problems. If you still feel 100% certain the problem is the amp I guess you will have to continue to deal with the company. But if you feel there is any doubt and it could be something with the install let me know and I will try to help you get it working right.

looked into the things you said, checking corrosion and all, but that wouldnt be the case if every other amp works fine with the wiring, as well as the fact that the amo DOES get power, but the red status light goes off, not the blue power one...

I do not know what red status light going off means. You can not accurately diagnose or troubleshoot an amplifier installation based on the lights of the amp alone. There are other factors that can lead to the LED indicators going on..or off. Voltage drop on the power, ground or remote can cause a false diagnostic LED to go on or off. And one amp may operate with the problem, and another may not.

Generally, the status LED(s) (if all else is good, voltage etc) will just let you know the amp is either on or off..or in protect mode.

What can cause an amp to go into protect mode (which at that point it will cut off, distort/ be less powerful etc) is a shorted speaker wire, a speaker wire that is touching ground, a defective speaker or the ohms load is too low (below the amplifiers minimum rating).

As well, not all amplifiers have the same type of protection circuitry, nor are they all rated at the same min. ohms and/or voltage ratings which would explain why some amps will work in the same situation and another will not.

The ONLY thing I can conclude with the information I have at hand..is either this company does not know how to bench test an amplifier (which is extremely simple), is outright lying to you, or there is something wrong with the way is it wired/installed which is causing it to cut off in your car, but yet still test fine on the test bench indicating it has nothing wrong with it.

The protection circuitry is a double edged sword. On one hand it causes the amp to cut on and off or decrease in power output...not good. But on the other hand, it prevents the amplifier from permanent damage..which is caused by excessive heat. The protection circuitry is simple..too much heat, it shuts off amp or limits power.

Once again, I am willing to help you fix this...I am not accusing you of lying or anything like that..but perhaps you are not experienced enough with wiring/troubleshooting amplifiers to fix this yourself..or depending on others who you want to believe are qualified..but really are not. Or..this place is scamming you. I can not make that conclusion..I can only offer to help if you think there is a chance the amp may be testing good on the bench, but not in your car. If that is the case..it is probably a simple fix..but one that is being overlooked by all involved.

..and this is the reason it is crucial to use a meter...is if there is low voltage on the main power wire...but the remote wire is good..the LED will often indicate on many amplifiers (especially low and mid level quality) that the amp is on. However,,it is really only telling you the remote wire has sufficient power..not that the amplifier itself is receiving enough power to operate effectively. In other words..a "false" diagnostic.

Another consideration..some amplifiers will not operate if the remote wire has too low of a voltage on it..but yet the main power and ground wire are perfect. Each amplifier has it's own threshold...so you may install another amplifier on the same wiring and it will work fine..but another will fail. Again, a false diagnostic if you do not use a meter.

The ONLY way to  conclude what the problem is IF the amp checks out good on the test bench, but not in the vehicle..is by conducting the proper tests and procedures to find the problem. No matter how many times you send the amp back..if it tests good on the bench, it means the amp is good and they will send it back "no problem found..here is your bill" each and every time.

So..this is what you need to consider as well. I can guide you through the proper tests and procedures to conclude what the cause is..but you must be willing to except the problem may not be the amp..but something else causing the amp to cut off and let me guide you to find the actual reason.