Comp cams compitition cams Comp cams sells soft cams garaunteed to destroy your engine Memphis Tennessee

Yeah, Comp has had numerous problems with soft cams getting out.  One of the core suppliers has sent product with light case depth hardness.  It is a know problem internally.  They also have a problem with what they call "localized annealing" where a cam is roughed and/or finished at too high a speed/feed thus literally re-heat treating the lobes and causing premature failure.  This is typical of a roller cam.

Threaten to sue and you'll get better results.  The warranty guy, "Red", has high blood pressure and if you needle him and not give in he'll blow a gasket and you'll have a better chance of getting your money's worth.  Don't fall for the, "... this company is owned by an attorney.." line.  While that's true that guy is busy counting his money and chasing skirts and would rather settle than go to court.

The engine in question was built by a shop that puts about 10 high quality engines out a week. I will not believe that a cam of flat,roller or any design should be so soft you can widdle it with your buck pocket knife. Seriously, I could gouge chunks out. Now come on. At that softness whats next,I can bend it over my knee?

CompCams makes both flat and roller tappet versions of their Xtreme Energy series cams. The flats are all in the $130-$170 range, while the rollers are double that.

It is very possible the wrong version was sent by mistake. The part number should be stamped on the face. Check it to be sure you got the correct cam. This should have been done when you opened the box. The lifters must match the cam also. Check their part numbers. I've gotten lifters that did not have the rotation pattern ground into them. Without the rotation pattern, the lifters will not rotate, and lobe/lifter destruction is the result. 

I've built more emgines than I can count, using cams from everyone. I've never had an issue with any of them, other than the occasional incorrect part number.

The initial break in procedure for a flat tappet cam is very important. You MUST use ample amounts of break-in lube(I always use more than the packet they send), and make sure the engine fires the first time. Cranking the engine over and over wipes the lobes clean. When it starts, run it between 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes. This ensures the cam is getting plenty of lubrication, and cures the lobes. It also sets up the pattern between the lobe and the lifter.

This is how I do it, and I have never lost one.  

   

I am and have been the second profession and a double cut is most often in modern terms called a second cut. Does that help you?And does it matter? Should a cam of supposed rockwell of aroung 55 be EASILY able to file? That may be the bigger question than nomenclature or do I file left or right handed. Or what size my shoes are. If your filing a rebutal fine, but could it please have mature pertinance to the larger topic. Thankyou

Obvilusly you are NO Mechanic, or a Machinist either, I AM both, and there's no such thing as a second cut file.

The builder/break in guy builds countless winning engines on the local,and not so local NHRA circuit. I am not a master like you and most certainly him, however I can google the net...Oh and I got this little retired metallurgist/tool maker thing going on. Let me tell you what those two little things say. Google says time after time that the upper end XE series comp cams have far to aggressive a ramp for flat tappet yet comp wont admit it. And that silly little tool room experience for over 30 yrs tells me I shouldnt have been able to easily,quite easily cut that cam with a second cut cheap file. Ya, literally rip shreads off like widdling wood. Is that how cams are supposed to be. And as for how to avoid again. Dont use comp cams and/or stay roller

I've built competition engines with Crane Cams and had no trouble, I need more data, such as head to valve clearance, Compression ratio, and maybe the kind of engine would help a bit too.

I DO know that it's really easy to put oversize springs on that won't compress far enough, that'll destroy a cam and lifters exactly as you describe.

Any bent push rods, that's a sure valve train interference giveaway

Did you turn the engine over two complete turns BY HAND  before finish assembly? probably not or you'd have noticed any binding.

There's a thousand ways to destroy a new Hi Powered engine and blaming Crane isn't one of them.

Detail your assembly step by step and maybe I can keep this from happening again,

Jim D