Accurate Transmission replacement after replacement, after replacement Mundelein Illinois

First I would like to state that I am a Jeep factory trained, ASE master tech.  The most key factors in a good customer / shop relationship are communication and education.  The shop must extend both as must the customer.  Most shops see frustrated customers day in and day out, primarily due to the customer already being frustrated with an improperly functioning vehicle.  Nonetheless, just keep in mind a calm, friendly attitude will get you far with any repair shop.

Now to the issue with the Wrangler.  It is apparent you have the 30RH or 32RH transmission in your Jeep depending on your engine size.  These unit are quite solid, and have great longevity.  The manufacturer you are referring to has probably the best build standards out of any I have used in my years of repair.  As with any transmission replacement, it is ALWAYS recommended to replace your radiator mounted transmission cooler, despite the failure that cause you to replace your original.  Over time, keep in mind your Jeep was 9 years old at the time, the cooler will develop debris and internal wear from expansion/contraction and can absorb burnt or debris laiden fluid.  The fins inside these units are typically aluminum, and have very small fin setups that trap debris in the system.  When this happens, the cooler does not flow the fluid through it as efficiently and in turn creates extremely high temperatures inside your transmission.  This is referred to as cooler restriction.  You could have also had an issue with fluid contamination.  That is what created your burnt fluid condition over and over.  That should have been addressed. 

You also stated that you repaired a leaking bolt with thread lock on the back side of your unit and filled the weep hole with a screw.  First I have seen transmission leaks on fresh unit installs for years now.  There are only two causes I have ever seen on these units.  One is a cooler restriction causing excessive operating temperatures which cause greater fluid expansion within restricted space, the other is an overfilled condition.  Again leading to my first conclusion, restricted cooler.  As for the leaking bolt to the tailshaft housing, not a huge issue, and a pretty simple fix.  Typically about 20 minutes seeing as the vehicle sits with a good deal of ground clearance. 

Overall, my recommendation to any customer having automotive work performed is this:

       1.  Research your issue before talking to a shop.  Understand the specific vehicle system you are having trouble with to the best of your ability.  Any repair not covered under a factory warranty can usually be reduced if the customer understands the possible repairs that may be needed.  Most of this can be easily researched by typing your concern into a web search. 

        2.  Speak with the shop and discuss your concern fully, inform them that you would like to be kept up to date on any issues or difficulties they may come across or delays that may be encountered. 

        3.  Inquire as to their recommended process of repair including any precautionary steps they recommend to prevent issues or recurrence, and to ensure you maintain the warranty on your repairs.  Many companies will gladly supply you with the parts or services they recommend, likely at a reduced cost compared to buying them yourself elsewhere. 

Hopefully this will help inform prospective buyers before any situation where the shop and the customer take part in that great thing called business.