John Deere LT160 with 185 hrs has blowed up two time now, needs new engine, ripoff. Moline Illinois

I just wanted to add a small detail to my original post here. With all of the bad mouthing it should be known that the John Deere BC1600 weed wacker is actually a Homelite UT15198 weed wacker!
Again, MTD is building everything for most if not all small equipment manufacturers-that's where it all became JUNK!!!

I own the Home Depot version of the John Deere 17.5hp 42" lawn tractor. I purchased it approximatly 2001?Don't recall exactly. Within the first few times of using it I removed the ridiculous parking brake they instituted..... an engineering extrodinaire!  I have had one back tire go flat which I stuck a plug in and replaced the blades twice because my wife just puts it in gear and anything in the way gets mulched including rocks and fence post! Even the cows know to stay clear of her!
The mower was built by John Deere and has been very reliable for me. I do all of my own maintainence which includes greasing the mower deck, pivot points, front end, and rear grease fittings. Most people never touch them until they have to replace the mower deck at half the cost of the tractor! I change the oil twice a season, replace the belts every two seasons, and tune it up every spring. I have the Briggs and Stratton engine which I prefer over all others. With that said, I have no complaints what-so-ever other than the parking brake nonsense.
To my knowledge, all of the major lawn equipment manufacturers no longer do in-house manufacturing. MTD is THE manufacturer of most if not ALL lawn equipment. That said, quality took a huge nose dive and therefore, the newer units are probably going to have less reliability, more breakdowns, and shorter longevity...... gotta make those billion dollar profits to pay the CEO and all those investors!
I have always done all of my own mechanical work whether it be my pick-up, the lawn mower.... whatever, I stay OUT of repair shops!!! If you can't do the repairs yourself I might suggest you either find a reputable shop (far and few) or ask around to friends, family, the coffee shop, anywhere you patronize because someone will know the name of a reputable, competant, repair shop or individual. I'm old school, a MECHANIC, I can diagnose and fix the PROBLEM! Today, there are more PARTS REPLACERS than MECHANICS!!! Sounds like your John Deere dealer may fall in the latter category!!
Hope my knowledge enlightens you somewhat and good luck with your DEERE!

Thomas,

Thanks for asking and since I don't want to get dinged on mentioning them, I will just say that you got it right, my new tools are running just fine!

This is a John Deere issue and I can relate with everything Todd wrote about.

Even if he puts in a new engine, according to John Deere's very own dealers, he will have problems with the poorly designed axle and very poorly designed Transmission.

You would NOT have problems like that with a quality, well designed and well built machine!

John Deere does not make quality machines!

Just to let you all know, I did not run the machine low on oil. If you read my report, when I went to pick the Machine up ( after repairs for the key brake) I seen the oil leaking and told the dealer, and after about 10 min's of me telling him it was not from them " JUST WORKING ON IT" he said he would have someone take a look at it the next day.( I did not take the machine home and run it with no oil.)

Yes I check the oil every time before use. I changed the oil every time I should have, with John Deere Turf-Gard oil, John Deere oil filter, John Deere Air filter, I used nothing but John Deere parts.

Some on here are saying this is not a Deere issue??
My Warranty States " Where a warrantable condition exists, John Deere ( Not dealer ) will repair your small off-road equipment engine at no cost to you including diagnosis, parts and labor."

See it says John Deere Not Your dealer will repair etc. My whole warranty states John Deere not dealer?

AND YES I am way out of warranty but, I think there should be a lemon law as with automobile's, I have trouble with this thing from day one and I am sick of buying junk for big bucks.

Thanks for posting about your trouble with John Deere too.

If your muffler bolts are repeatedly loosening after they were properly tightened, they are probably relaxing (stretching under tension caused by thermal growth of the head and muffler flange being greater than bolt thermal growth combined with the effect of heat on the bolt materials). Get different material bolts... *before* yours shear off, as previously noted. This is a basic problem caused by inexperienced product designers. Any good engine builder should be able to help.

Mike,

Please be careful with the John Deere BC1600!

I am not the only person who had problems with the BC1600. Please keep in mind that I mentioned the problems with the muffler and you have noticed that the bolts loosened not once, but twice on your own unit.

If you continue using the BC1600, the bolts will loosen until they sheer off flush with the engine block. This is a clear design defect and it will not matter that you checked the muffler before use, this will happen at the worse possible moment!

There are far better quality power tools available.

You mentioned that there is a trick winding the strings... Mike, a quality tool doesn't have mufflers loosen. Quality tools don't require tricks!

Some people have taken the time to write in and post comments about Oil!'

The consumer should be able to open the owner's manual and see the lubrication requirements and it should be clearly marked on the tool for easy reference. A quality product will not require the consumer too use special oil' that was pumped out of the ground on the third full moon of the year!

After reading Todd's report, I wrote and posted my comments because I could relate to everything he wrote He is telling the truth and I can say this because of my personal experience with poor quality John Deere products.

Folks, Nothing runs to the garbage can like a John Deere!'

Google, John Deere Lt160 Review and you will see dealers writing comments that say. Do Not Buy This Machine' on epinions' and you will read about problems with the Deck, Transmission and axle!

Folks, Nothing runs to the garbage can like a John Deere!'

Google John Deere Complaints and see for yourself!

Robert W. Lane knows about these problems. Ask Barry Averett about these problems. Ask Steven J. Davis about these problems Ask them why fact part # UPO6941, had vibrated loose and sheared off in the engine block on two BC1600's.

Ask them why it also loosened on Mike's BC1600?

Ask them why a consumer found that the fuel tank bumpers, part # UPO3501, had deteriorated and were missing and ask them why the rear case cover will show signs of melting?

I believe Todd!

Nothing runs to the Garbage Can like a John Deere!

I have a BC1600 and a Ryobi 790r. The Ryobi trimmers were made by MTD. I'm pretty sure the Deere was too. It says "Homelite" on the back but I think that they were bought out by MTD.

Actually the 1600 is a decent machine as far as big-box trimmers go, but it was way too expensive for what it is. The muffler has come lose twice. The first time, I simply retightened the bolts. The second time then I, ahem, RETIGHTENED the bolts. It's still on there. That's really the only problem I've had with it.

On any dual-string head, there is a trick to winding the strings so it won't jam. You must hold the strings apart with your finger. If you wind them right next to/on top of each other, it will jam.

Actually the Ryobi is my "go to" machine because I didn't pay an arm and a leg for it (someone gave it to me because they were sick of it not running), so I don't feel bad about abusing it. Parts are widely available since it's such a common model. You just have to intercept the ones that your friends and neighbors are about to throw away.

I have a BC1600 and a Ryobi 790r. The Ryobi trimmers were made by MTD. I'm pretty sure the Deere was too. It says "Homelite" on the back but I think that they were bought out by MTD.

Actually the 1600 is a decent machine as far as big-box trimmers go, but it was way too expensive for what it is. The muffler has come lose twice. The first time, I simply retightened the bolts. The second time then I, ahem, RETIGHTENED the bolts. It's still on there. That's really the only problem I've had with it.

On any dual-string head, there is a trick to winding the strings so it won't jam. You must hold the strings apart with your finger. If you wind them right next to/on top of each other, it will jam.

Actually the Ryobi is my "go to" machine because I didn't pay an arm and a leg for it (someone gave it to me because they were sick of it not running), so I don't feel bad about abusing it. Parts are widely available since it's such a common model. You just have to intercept the ones that your friends and neighbors are about to throw away.

I have a BC1600 and a Ryobi 790r. The Ryobi trimmers were made by MTD. I'm pretty sure the Deere was too. It says "Homelite" on the back but I think that they were bought out by MTD.

Actually the 1600 is a decent machine as far as big-box trimmers go, but it was way too expensive for what it is. The muffler has come lose twice. The first time, I simply retightened the bolts. The second time then I, ahem, RETIGHTENED the bolts. It's still on there. That's really the only problem I've had with it.

On any dual-string head, there is a trick to winding the strings so it won't jam. You must hold the strings apart with your finger. If you wind them right next to/on top of each other, it will jam.

Actually the Ryobi is my "go to" machine because I didn't pay an arm and a leg for it (someone gave it to me because they were sick of it not running), so I don't feel bad about abusing it. Parts are widely available since it's such a common model. You just have to intercept the ones that your friends and neighbors are about to throw away.

I have a BC1600 and a Ryobi 790r. The Ryobi trimmers were made by MTD. I'm pretty sure the Deere was too. It says "Homelite" on the back but I think that they were bought out by MTD.

Actually the 1600 is a decent machine as far as big-box trimmers go, but it was way too expensive for what it is. The muffler has come lose twice. The first time, I simply retightened the bolts. The second time then I, ahem, RETIGHTENED the bolts. It's still on there. That's really the only problem I've had with it.

On any dual-string head, there is a trick to winding the strings so it won't jam. You must hold the strings apart with your finger. If you wind them right next to/on top of each other, it will jam.

Actually the Ryobi is my "go to" machine because I didn't pay an arm and a leg for it (someone gave it to me because they were sick of it not running), so I don't feel bad about abusing it. Parts are widely available since it's such a common model. You just have to intercept the ones that your friends and neighbors are about to throw away.

Todd,

I read your report and I do agree that this is a John Deere issue!

I would like to share with you an incident that occurred about four years ago.

I was tired of replacing the Ryobi for a second time bad quality does not begin to describe Ryobi Products.

I went into Home Depot and purchased a John Deere BC1600 Trimmer/Bush Cutter. I chose this model because it would take the attachments that I had for the Ryobi.

In less than two years, the unit was replaced once and the muffler broke off at least six times which meant I would be sprayed with the fuel/oil mixture. In addition to this design defect, I would end up with a burn on my arm and side every time I used the John Deere BC1600.

During this time a total of ten complaint letters was sent directly to John Deere about their product and lack of customer service.

I was given the run-around by John Deere phone representatives. I was also treated like a liar, criminal, and fool by the phone representatives. I was accused of being abusive to the machine. They accused me of not holding the tool correctly. I was told that my property was way too large for this tool and that I should have/needed to purchase the Professional Series.

This treatment was also received from the legal department at John Deere Corporate Headquarters.

During this time Home Depot would not repair the machine because warranty work is through the manufacture. John Deere Dealers refused warranty work because it was purchased from Home Depot.

To make a long story short, John Deere sent a refund check to a local dealer for me to pickup and as I dropped off the BC1600, I mentioned that John Deere said I wasn't holding the machine correctly and asked him how it should be used.

We have all seen how a person with back pain walks after getting up from a chair. They are bent over and can not straighten up. That is how the John Deere Dealer told me how to use the tool at the hip bend forward about 5-10% so that if you look straight down, your head is about a foot or so past your feet. Now hold your arms out straight at about a 25-40% angle with the BC1600.
I told him that it couldn't be done that way because the shoulder strap interfered. He said that I was not supposed to use the shoulder strap. I also pointed out that the owners manual didn't show that and he said that's because the manual is wrong.

I also asked about the John Deere Professional series brand that Customer Service had been pushing Talk about cheap and poor quality!

The Ryobi couldn't last more than one season and every year I had to replace it.

The John Deere was worse, it couldn't last one season, when the exhaust broke it would spray me with gasoline and oil and I would be burned every time I used it and the line feed would jam up like the Ryobi would, plus nobody would work on it! (I had to do the repair work myself.)

That was four years ago!

Four years ago, I went to a reputable dealer that sold (((competitor's name redacted))) Products and purchased a (redacted))) FS110X. I also purchased a (((redacted))) SH85 Leaf Blower and a (((redacted))) 017 Chainsaw.

d**n they start! They last more than one season! I am not sprayed with gasoline and oil! I am not burnt! The line feed works! Did I mention that they start? They use a lot less gasoline than the Ryobi or John Deere!

Plus the local (((redacted))) Dealer will work on it and in four years they have never broke down! (Did I mention they start?)

Todd, John Deere is ripping people off by selling low quality at high prices!

Todd do you remember the commercial, Nothing runs like a Deere?

They got it wrong it should be, Nothing runs like a Deere to the Garbage Can!

sorry, allowing you to give a competitors name would instigate others to just file against their competition, to only come back later to suggest their company your comments on this policy are welcome! CLICK here to see why Rip-off Report, as a matter of policy, deleted either a phone number, link or e-mail address from this Report.

Depending on exactly why the engine failed, you may be able to get some "goodwill" directly from the engine manufacturer. If it really did just "blow up", despite your proper maintenance, use of approved oil, and going to a dealer for repairs, they may offer to cover it even though it is out of warranty. I remind you that you are asking them for a big favor so you must be polite.

If it failed due to lack of oil because of a leak that you were aware of, you're out of luck.

Why is it considered normal for these things to backfire? The reason is the engine manufacturers, particularly Briggs, lobby tooth and nail to prevent any pollution restrictions from being applied to lawn mowers. That allows them to keep making them with 1940's carburetor technology instead of being forced to convert to fuel injection like cars were in the 1980's.

So generations of shiny new lawn tractors are made that belch pollution, guzzle gas, and run like crap just like the old ones did. The first two points are of no concern to American consumers, and only a very few are aware of the third one, and there is no choice in the market for them anyway.

Depending on exactly why the engine failed, you may be able to get some "goodwill" directly from the engine manufacturer. If it really did just "blow up", despite your proper maintenance, use of approved oil, and going to a dealer for repairs, they may offer to cover it even though it is out of warranty. I remind you that you are asking them for a big favor so you must be polite.

If it failed due to lack of oil because of a leak that you were aware of, you're out of luck.

Why is it considered normal for these things to backfire? The reason is the engine manufacturers, particularly Briggs, lobby tooth and nail to prevent any pollution restrictions from being applied to lawn mowers. That allows them to keep making them with 1940's carburetor technology instead of being forced to convert to fuel injection like cars were in the 1980's.

So generations of shiny new lawn tractors are made that belch pollution, guzzle gas, and run like crap just like the old ones did. The first two points are of no concern to American consumers, and only a very few are aware of the third one, and there is no choice in the market for them anyway.

Depending on exactly why the engine failed, you may be able to get some "goodwill" directly from the engine manufacturer. If it really did just "blow up", despite your proper maintenance, use of approved oil, and going to a dealer for repairs, they may offer to cover it even though it is out of warranty. I remind you that you are asking them for a big favor so you must be polite.

If it failed due to lack of oil because of a leak that you were aware of, you're out of luck.

Why is it considered normal for these things to backfire? The reason is the engine manufacturers, particularly Briggs, lobby tooth and nail to prevent any pollution restrictions from being applied to lawn mowers. That allows them to keep making them with 1940's carburetor technology instead of being forced to convert to fuel injection like cars were in the 1980's.

So generations of shiny new lawn tractors are made that belch pollution, guzzle gas, and run like crap just like the old ones did. The first two points are of no concern to American consumers, and only a very few are aware of the third one, and there is no choice in the market for them anyway.

Depending on exactly why the engine failed, you may be able to get some "goodwill" directly from the engine manufacturer. If it really did just "blow up", despite your proper maintenance, use of approved oil, and going to a dealer for repairs, they may offer to cover it even though it is out of warranty. I remind you that you are asking them for a big favor so you must be polite.

If it failed due to lack of oil because of a leak that you were aware of, you're out of luck.

Why is it considered normal for these things to backfire? The reason is the engine manufacturers, particularly Briggs, lobby tooth and nail to prevent any pollution restrictions from being applied to lawn mowers. That allows them to keep making them with 1940's carburetor technology instead of being forced to convert to fuel injection like cars were in the 1980's.

So generations of shiny new lawn tractors are made that belch pollution, guzzle gas, and run like crap just like the old ones did. The first two points are of no concern to American consumers, and only a very few are aware of the third one, and there is no choice in the market for them anyway.

but it's straight from Kohler's own owner's manual.
Here is the link progression to the manual I quoted:

http://kohlerplus.com/login.asp
*click enter as a guest*
http://www.kohlerplus.com/main_frame.asp
*click "service Literature"*
*scroll down to "24 590 02-A* I used this as it is one of the most common used.
*page 5 of the pdf on the left hand side has the info I provided as well as a chart*

And having seen first hand (use of Mobil 1 in a Kohler K341) that not all engine are specifically protected by synthetics, I will tend to believe the manufacturer of the item - not an Amsoil salesman. And granted, I'm sure Amsoil would pay (would hope they would pay the same as OPTI claims they would) for your engine should anything happen to it-I don't think the same can be said for Mobil.

Kohler does not make their own oil that I know of but puts their name on it and refers to it as theirs in the owner's manual-again, I am just reading what has been written.

Allegedly Kohler does ask for the oil to be formulated a certain way and I could really care less who makes it for them. Is that suppose to actually prove something? As long as it works and they stand behind it. It is certainly easier to sell a customer on Kohler's named oil than Amsoil, Opti-oil, etc.

Kohler themselves have admitted that the use of hydraulic lifters in an application they were not intended (in a vertical design engine as opposed to a horizontal design as in a vehicle) is a problem and that is why they recommend the 10w30 oil and NEVER 30w. Almost every unit I have seen where the consumer used anything other than 10w30 for an oil change comes into the shop with a noise complaint and it is the lifters not pumping up. Just a simple change to 10w30 rectifies the issue. Fact. The horizontal design is not affected nearly as much but still can be.
30w oil is still very widely used in outdoor power equipment products. In fact, Kawasaki's twin vertical applications can ONLY use straight 30w as there is a problem with oil retention in the breather with multi-grade oils and this causes a smoking situation. Where do you get your misinformation? How is straight 30w "extremely limited" when you can buy it almost anywhere-even WalMart?

I have used Redline oils in my motorcycles-would I use them in lawn equipment-no. No need.

And I still do not see where the same engine has "blowed up" twice as listed in the shock value title.

by 2 different people-the same advice-and you are arguing it because you didn't get your virtual baba.
Your problem is with the DEALER you took it to and were advised to take it to another dealer. THAT is where your problem is. That is helpful information.
You certainly can not dispute ANYTHING I have posted-thus why you are having your temper tantrum.
The oil leak that you admitted the unit had FROM THE DEALER AFTER AN ALLEGED REPAIR and you running it with such is what blew the engine up.
It had low-to-no oil eventually.

This is why you are having to pay now. First-you are way out of warranty, and even if you were in warranty-there is no warranty for running an engine low on oil. You, as the operator are also suppose to check the oil before each use as stated in the owner's manual.

If you paid for repairs before that you felt shouldn't have been charged for-again, the DEALER is who you have an issue with-NOT JOHN DEERE. do you delusionally think that somehow Deere gets/got that repair money? Because that's the only way any of this frivolous complaint against Deere would make sense and is outright false and laughable. Your continued ignorance is what really caused your problems for you. You knew it had an oil leak and ran it anyway instead of demanding the DEALER or taking it to another DEALER to get it fixed properly.

One more time:
John Deere manufacturers the machine.
John Deere powers the machine with an engine they BUY from Kohler.
John Deere does not own any repair shop (that I'm aware of).
The repair shop failed you-not John Deere.
You need to find another repair shop.

" Synthetic oil is only acceptable below 40 degrees..."

Pure hogwash. Synthetic oil is ALWAYS acceptable because a Cat-3 or Cat-4 will offer a much flatter viscosity index (VI) than any mineral oil will ever have. A PAO can be tricky but it is the highest performing lubricant.

"... and in weights of 5w20/5w30 for better starting in cold conditions."

See the VI comment above, that a Cat-3 or Cat-4 synthetic will offer a much flatter VI than a mineral oil. The kinematic viscosity 'weight' is selected per the mfg recommendations.

"Other than that, 10w30/Kohler 10w30 is recommended." Kohler does NOT produce engine oil- they simply brand another company's oil, such as Mobil. But YOU do not know whose- do you?

"The "clatter" you hear is the lifters not being able to pump up due to incorrect oil-not a built-in indicator of a needed oil change." No, the oil will thicken in use because of blowby and THAT will retard the "pumping up" of the lifter. Sludge/varnish accumulated from the repeated use of mineral oil will lead to ring seizing and lifter noise but those issues often lead to engine wear and rebuild. I do use Mobil-1 10W30 oil and it works well until it is time for an oil change.

"Straight 30 weight is a disaster." No, it is not, but it is a poor choice because there is simply no reason to use a 'Straight 30 weight' in anything beyond selected racing applications, and 'Straight 30 weight' product selection is also extremely limited.


Redline oils are intended for, and work well in, racing applications but they are not 'approved' by many manufacturers for extended daily use because the additive packages are biased towards racing, i.e. EP and antiscuff are emphasized. Mobil-1 is not Marine-rated, but AMSOIL High-Performance Synthetic oil IS Marine-rated which is why I use it in our Baja.

All you have to do is confirm that a synthetic oil's performance specs (on the bottle) are equal to OR BETTER THAN the oil specs specified by the engine manufacturer.

I am not alleging anything. The John Deere is blown up!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can see you are someone that is not out there to help but one that is out there to try and make someone look like they don't know what they are talking about. If you want a full report from the shop that is working on the LT I would love to send you one.

I am done, I don't have to prove a thing to you. I know the machine was well taken care of and now is BLOWN UP.

To anyone out there thinking of buying a Deere, All I can say is if you start to have trouble make sure you get every thing on paper. Every time you take the machine in for repairs, ask for and keep the shop report.

Things I know for sure
1. I bought a John Deere for over $2500.00
2. I had trouble with the John Deere from day one.
3. The engine is now blown up.
4. I have to pay for the repairs.
5. IF and I mean IF I didn't have the trouble with the machine, John Deere would return my emails and it didn't have ONLY 185 hrs on it I would have never filed the report on this web site!!!!!!!!

If anyone out there has any help please post it.

Thank you!!

is only acceptable below 40 degrees and in weights of 5w20/5w30 for better starting in cold conditions. Other than that, 10w30/Kohler 10w30 is recommended. The "clatter" you hear is the lifters not being able to pump up due to incorrect oil-not a biult in indicator of a needed oil change. 10w30 usage rarely causes a "clatter". Straight 30 weight is a disaster.
And I do not see where this alleged engine "blowed up" 2 times.

I use a '92 Scotts LT (by John Deere). It is a lovely red and matches our '91 Scotts rear-drive walk-behind.... but I digress.

Our Scotts LT has a Kohler engine and there have been no problems so far except that the carb was replaced under warranty. The gas that sat in the tank at Home Depot had gotten old because the tractor sat in inventory and old gas will varnish the carb.

I do use either Mobil-1 or AMSOIL high-performance oil in our mowers, the choice being based on my mood. The only engine quirk so far is some occasional lifter clicking which I take as a signal to change the oil. I think these are the same lifters I had in an '81 Buick engine.

Re operation, I slow the engine to idle and then I immediately shut the enging down to avoid after-running. Also I DO NOT wash the top of the cutter deck with water because then dirt will be washed into the idler wheel and cutter spindle bearings forcing slightly tedious repairs.

Maybe Kohler has a weak engine design. I would suggest that you use a *real* synthetic oil, because those engines do get hot. Gasoline should not be an issue if you add Sta-Bil to any gasoline you store in a gas can. Modern gas that is not stabilized gets old within a few weeks and will cause varnish problems.

It is possible that you need to patronize another dealer...........

John Deere manufacturered the machine-that is all they did.
-A DEALER sold you the machine.
Kohler makes the engine-not John Deere.
-A DEALER sold you the machine with the engine on it.
The oil companies produce the garbage fuel we have to run in these units that cause backfiring and vapor lock-not John Deere.
-The DEALER is who is suppose to be addressing the issue.
-The DEALER should have fixed your oil leak-not John Deere.

I'm not a Deere fan as I don't agree with alot of their policies and brainwashing of dealers but this is NOT A DEERE ISSUE-IT IS THE DEALERS!

I bought a 17 hp MTD lawn tractor back in '00 and its worked perfectly every time since. Certainly no backfiring issues that cause severe damage. Its got a Briggs & Stratton Intek 2 cylinder engine.

I don't think Deere makes its own engines. But your experience is another black eye for American manufacturers. Its no wonder that MTD now carries the " Powermore " line of engines for its small grass cutters. Yes, an engine made in China knocked off from the honda engine. Don't U.S. guys just beg for customers to buy imports with experiences like yours?

John Deere built the tractor and sold the tractor and did not fix the trouble I have had from day one.

The oil leak I wrote about in the 1st part was just an oil leak, a oil leak before the key way brake.

And you said about backfires and the owner's manual telling how to prevent them. Yes they do but when you do everything that is in there and the machine still backfires then what? As for the gas and operator being a contributing factor, yes I agree with that, but as for the key way braking and causing a backfire I do not agree. Why? Because the Dealer and every small engine repair person I know has said that the backfire is what broke the key way.

You said " not a myriad as you try to allude sometimes and stuff just happens "

Oil leak = no machine for 1 week

Loss of power/ backfiring = no machine for 1 week.

Key way brake( + one oil leak )= no machine for 1.5 weeks.

Engine blown up = No machine until I buy new engine. I say blown because cam is bent, values bent and cylinders scarred. ( please remember Lt has ONLY 185 hrs on it. )

So is this no big deal? should I not be a little upset? If I didn't have trouble with the Deere in the first place I would not have had to go to a dealer. So why do you say I have not had trouble with the machine and That the dealer is the problem and not the machine itself???? You say I have only 2 issues when if you count I see 4.

" Please post a link to all these alleged complaints as I certainly can not find them."

If you read my report you would see I did post a link but it was deleted as per this web pages policy. And they are not alleged. Try " trouble with my John Deere LT160. And see what you get. Or to save you some time go to compact tractor review dot com. That would be all one word with a . in place of the word dot.

One more thing for thought. I do PM on the LT, Oil changes, air filter,etc. I do not abuse the machine, garage kept from day one. Cleaned after EVERY mowing. I just didn't want you to think I was someone that was never around Machinery. Spent life growing up on farm equipment and lawn mowers. I can operate any and all heavy equipment out there. Loaders, Dozer's, Track hoes, rubber tire loaders etc. etc. etc.


So sorry to say but this IS A John Deere issue.

Please post a link to all these alleged complaints as I certainly can not find them.
I have worked in a couple Deere dealerships and find there product-even the cheesy, low dollar Lowes/Depot models-to be of a good quality compared to other manufacturers in the market.
Your complaint should be directed at the alleged, inept dealership who can not seem to properly diagno/repair your issues (valve cover leak) rather than the machine itself.

The operator and fuel are contributing factors to the engine backfiring during shut off which should be explained in the owner's manual on how to prevent it. Other than that-it is the same issue as the key being sheared-the sheared key caused the backfire.

So, there are really only 2 issues here-an oil leak after a shop worked on it, and a sheared flywheel key that caused a backfire-not a myriad as you try to allude sometimes and stuff just happens. That's why there are shops available to serve the consumer. You just need to find a better one.